We drove from Granada to Seville on New Year’s Eve. In Granada I had purchased a bunch of grapes in preparation for the Spanish New Year’s tradition of eating 12 grapes, one for each clang of the bell at midnight. I have heard from several people that the tradition began in a time when there was a lot of poverty and not enough food. One year there was a huge grape harvest. Not wanting to waste any food, they decided everyone would eat 12 grapes at midnight to celebrate the New Year with food and hope for a better year. Now they say that if you eat one with each clang, you will have good luck for the year. No wonder the lines at the lottery ticket offices were so long after New Year’s Eve, ha!
We arrived in Seville in the afternoon, wound the car through the very narrow streets of the old town to find our little apartment, dropped our stuff off, and found a parking garage to leave the car for a few days. After making some dinner and laughing uproariously at a show called “Grand Prix” where towns compete in completely ridiculous contests, we wandered out to where we heard everyone was gathering to ring in the New Year, at the Plaza Nueva near the Town Hall. It was completely packed and we had to wander down to the Seville Cathedral and climb onto the steps to find a spot to watch. Waiting expectantly for the New Year with our 12 grapes tucked into our pockets, we enjoyed the spontaneous singing and watching the clock. The crowd cheered at midnight and we ate our grapes, although there were no bells clanging to check our progress against; we are going to assume we ate them within the 12 clangs and will have good luck of this year.
The next day we got a late start and decided to spend some time exploring the city by playing an exploration game though the city, pairing a fictional mystery to solve while following the clues through the city and getting some history as we wandered. It was a great way to motivate the kids to explore areas we may not have been able to otherwise, seeing the Seville Cathedral, Al Alcazar, the Jewish Quarter of Santa Cruz, the balcony that inspired the “Barber of Seville,” churches, palaces, and Las Setas (which I will explain later).
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