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Friday, January 19, 2024

Christmas Break 2023: Seville Day 3

Our third day in Seville we decided to explore the Plaza de España. Built of the 1928 for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, it is one of the largest and ranked one of the most impressive plazas in Europe.  They have also filmed several movies there, including one of the Star Wars, a definite selling point for at least one of us. We meandered though the beautiful Maria Luisa Park that surrounds the Plaza, enjoying the many fountains, mature trees from all over the world, and birds, and getting peeks of the towers of the Plaza. Suddenly it popped out of the trees and it did not disappoint.  It opens up to a massive, half-circular plaza with a building outlining the edge, towers at each end, and a canal between the semi-circular plaza and building, and several bridges crossing the canal.  Horses and carts park alongside the Plaza and wait for fares, trotting them through the Plaza and out into the city.  This spectacle is joined by boats rowing through the canal, musicians, Flamenco dancers, and other street performers. We decided to get in line to row a boat through the canal first.  As we waited we began chatting and found the gal in front of us was from Cuba but living in London for the past 12 years. She and her boyfriend were visiting her sister and brother-in-law and their children who live in Seville.  The sister confided in me at one point that the boyfriend was going to propose in the boats.  I told her we would take some photos and videos to share if we could.  The sister’s family got in one boat, and she and her boyfriend got into another. Once in our boat, Griffin began rowing us along, getting the hang of the oars while bumping into the other boats (to be fair, we were by far both the only ones bumping into others).  We watched for signs that the proposal would happen and rowed along.  Unfortunately he decided to propose when our boat was between the their’s and the sister’s family’s boat, so I videoed as much as I could and Darrell took photos.  The sister’s children had made signs to hold up.  It was a really sweet moment and lovely proposal and I was glad we could at least be sure it was captured for them.  And she said yes, whew!  The happy couple continued to row along, cuddling and glowing. I shared the photos and videos with the sister and we all felt lucky to be part of a special moment in their lives. Our kids took turns rowing and complaining that the boat rise was too long, with Larkin scheming about how to get out early.  Ha!  

Once we finished with the boats, we raced across the beautifully-decorated bridge and headed toward the Flamenco dancers and music.  They put on a passionate show which we enjoyed. We headed further along the circle to where we heard violin music and found a young man playing an electric violin.  We climbed the stairs to the second floor and enjoyed the view of the plaza and park while listening to him play. He let G hold the instrument to see how heavy it was. The plaza building is lined with ceramic tiles murals that each represent a Spanish province.  We found ours, Pontevedra, and took a photo by it. L was antsy to play, so we found a playground to enjoy for awhile.  We had other areas we wanted to explore, but legs were tired by this point, after about 5 miles of walking, so we headed back to the apartment and settled in for a mellow evening.



I love the architecture everywhere, reflecting the Moorish roots in this region.  Modern architecture in this building, housing a MacDonalds.  Ha!

G and I got an earlier start and had a nice stroll along the Guadalquivir River which connects Seville to the Atlantic. This connection made Seville the main port for ships returning with riches from other parts of the world.
Looking up the river, you can see a pirate ship and the Torre De Oro, which dates to Moorish times.  From the tower the Moors attached a chain to the other side of the river, which they could let out or make taught to control traffic up the river. 
The Torre de Oro, The Gold Tower, is said to have been the location where the treasures from around the world were unloaded.  And I also read that it was covered in gold at one point.  That would have been quite an impressive sight. 

First sight of the Plaza de España.
Click to expand this panorama. 
Check out the ceramic balustrades... so beautiful!

The lovely teamwork ended shortly.


Someone's always gotta make a face.
The engagement, she said yes!

L and D tackle the rowing. Look at the details on the bridge. 


Enjoying some rare snuggles.


Captivating Flamenco performance at the Plaza de España.
This image reminds me of Star Wars for some reason. 


Watching a violinist perform. I love that G always gives money to buskers. 
Our home province of Pontevedra.
There's our city!
A tired walk back, enjoying the sunset and cathedral in the background. 
Cathedral at twilight...so beautiful and impressive. 
Last archway of the day. 


Christmas Break 2023: Seville Day 1-2

We drove from Granada to Seville on New Year’s Eve.  In Granada I had purchased a bunch of grapes in preparation for the Spanish New Year’s tradition of eating 12 grapes, one for each clang of the bell at midnight.  I have heard from several people that the tradition began in a time when there was a lot of poverty and not enough food.  One year there was a huge grape harvest.  Not wanting to waste any food, they decided everyone would eat 12 grapes at midnight to celebrate the New Year with food and hope for a better year.  Now they say that if you eat one with each clang, you will have good luck for the year.  No wonder the lines at the lottery ticket offices were so long after New Year’s Eve, ha! 


We arrived in Seville in the afternoon, wound the car through the very narrow streets of the old town to find our little apartment, dropped our stuff off, and found a parking garage to leave the car for a few days.  After making some dinner and laughing uproariously at a show called “Grand Prix” where towns compete in completely ridiculous contests, we wandered out to where we heard everyone was gathering to ring in the New Year, at the Plaza Nueva near the Town Hall.  It was completely packed and we had to wander down to the Seville Cathedral and climb onto the steps to find a spot to watch. Waiting expectantly for the New Year with our 12 grapes tucked into our pockets, we enjoyed the spontaneous singing and watching the clock.  The crowd cheered at midnight and we ate our grapes, although there were no bells clanging to check our progress against; we are going to assume we ate them within the 12 clangs and will have good luck of this year.  


The next day we got a late start and decided to spend some time exploring the city by playing an exploration game though the city, pairing a fictional mystery to solve while following the clues through the city and getting some history as we wandered.  It was a great way to motivate the kids to explore areas we may not have been able to otherwise, seeing the Seville Cathedral, Al Alcazar, the Jewish Quarter of Santa Cruz, the balcony that inspired the “Barber of Seville,” churches, palaces, and Las Setas (which I will explain later). 


A little clip of "Grand Prix," the completely ridiculous show that I highly recommend you watch if you are in need of some laughter.  

It was very crowded.
Settling into our spot in the crowd.
Ready with our grapes.

The crowd getting excited moments from midnight. 
Mouths full of grapes, gonna have great luck this year!
Hello 2024!

Watching fireworks and enjoying the first ice cream of 2024.


This gal wins for best photobomb!  I love how she has the same expression as Darrell. 
She and Darrell high-fived after this one, it was so good!

First glimpse of the impressive Seville Cathedral.
Searching the Red Gate of the Alcazar for a clue to our city mystery tour. 
Passing through the archways between the Alcazar and the Santa Cruz Neighborhood, the Jewish Quarter. 

I love that there are apartments and businesses in places I would not expect, tucked into ancient corners of the city and archways like this one. 

Passing out of the archways, we came across this beautiful passageway with a fountain between the Alcazar and Santa Cruz. 
Looking for clues in the tiny streets in the Santa Cruz neighborhood.

Found a clue and looking for the next one. I love all the patterns and mosaics on the floors.  There is art everywhere here. 
Lots of arts have been inspired in Seville, and we came across this as we were walking in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. 

And the Spanish hero surfaces again, Washington Irving!  Griffin read his book "Tales from the Alhambra" and really enjoyed it. 

The second story balcony that everyone is photographing reportedly inspired "The Barber of Seville."













At the Bellas Artes...Halfway done with our Seville city mystery tour!

The other side of the Seville Cathedral.  Here you can really see the origins of this building, which were Moorish, and after the Reconquista, the Catholics converted it into a cathedral.  

More beautiful doors!





The underside of the Setas and where we found our last clue.  The mystery was a bit long of one of our hungry members. 
Playing a friendly game of thumb wars while waiting for their merienda, early evening snack.