Sinstra, Portugal

Last night the kids had a hard time falling asleep until almost midnight. We were going to wake them by 8 so we could spend the day in Sintra, but they were so knocked out that we let them sleep until 10. It wasn’t until almost 11:30 that we got into a cab to head to Sintra for our 12:30 entrance to the famous Pena Palace. The taxi driver was originally from India via Tanzania and was very interesting with tales and thoughts on everything from language to politics to history. The traffic was awful, so it took an hour for a normally 20-30 minute ride. It gave us a chance to check out the beautiful little town, so picturesque with its pastel-toned homes and colorful azulejos tiles. We spied the National Palace with its dominant, cone-shaped kitchen chimneys. The driver told us that the area used to be bare and rocky, but that one of the kings or royalty planted many trees so it is lush and shaded today. The driver grew up roaming the area and remembers camping there on stone slabs with his family as a boy. He finally dropped us at the property entrance and we showed our tickets and hiked up the beautiful, forested hill to the palace entrance. The Peña palace is striking for its beautiful colors and various architectural styles, and it did not disappoint.  Though we were 40 minutes late, we were allowed entrance and were herded into the palace. There we joined at the back of a line of people snaking its way through the palace on a predetermined route. Unfortunately, there was barely enough time to read informational signs and appreciate the different rooms and their incredible decor because so many people visit the site.  L started getting hot, hungry, and tired, so it became even more difficult to appreciate what was in front of us. So L and I cut our time a bit short and went to find some lunch. There was a little cafe in the forest and we found some sandwiches and drinks to refresh us and D and G joined us after they finished exploring the palace. 

We decided to skip the Moorish Castle and go to the Quinta da Regeliera, an elaborate home that is well known for its grounds. Most notably is the Initiation Well, carved from stone with a spiral walkway down to the bottom leading to caves, grottoes, and other interesting features. Finding a long line for it, D decided to try to sell his spot for 100€ once he got toward the front. Ha! While there were a lot of people, they kept the line moving and it was definitely worth the wait!. At the bottom we explored the caves, finding ourselves behind a little waterfall and pond. 

Another cave led to an unfinished well which spiraled up, but was blocked off. Wandering further we found an aquarium that was built of degraded limestone with holes that had glass affixed. It was no longer kept, but would have been incredible when it was in good condition. There was so much to explore with little surprises around each corner, and we had a wonderful time there. 

Wandering through the town afterward, we came across a woman playing a harp made from the cranium and antlers of an animal.  There was art and color everywhere we looked in the city.  But we definitely had some tired children at the end of the day. 

We returned to Lisbon that evening to pack for our journey north the next morning.  The owner of the guest house took D to pick up pizza and joined us for the meal in the garden.  He can spin a yarn, and he really reminded us of our old landlord both in appearance and demeanor.  Once we realized it, we couldn't unsee it… it was uncanny!  The connection definitely made the guest house a more special place to stay.